---
title: "How to Shave Properly: A Step-by-Step Guide to a Close, Clean Shave"
date: 2026-10-19
published: 2026-10-16
author: ""
featured_image: "https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/man-lathering-shaving-cream-bathroom-mirror.jpg"
categories:
  - name: "Grooming & Guides"
    url: "/blog/category/grooming-guides.md"
---

# How to Shave Properly: A Step-by-Step Guide to a Close, Clean Shave

Most shaving problems have nothing to do with the razor. They come from rushing the prep, pressing too hard, or going over the same patch until the skin gives up. Learn how to shave properly once and you get a closer shave that feels smooth for the rest of the day, without the nicks, rash and bumps. This is our full wet shave routine, step by step, for every skin type: the right tools, how to prepare, how to apply shaving cream, which way to shave, and how to look after your skin and your razor afterwards.

## On this page

- [Key takeaways](#key-takeaways)
- [What you need for a wet shave](#what-you-need-for-a-wet-shave)
- [Step 1: Your pre shave routine](#step-1-your-pre-shave-routine)
- [Step 2: Apply shaving cream](#step-2-apply-shaving-cream)
- [Step 3: Find the grain of your hair growth](#step-3-find-the-grain-of-your-hair-growth)
- [Step 4: Shave with the grain](#step-4-shave-with-the-grain)
- [Step 5: A second pass, only if you want it](#step-5-a-second-pass-only-if-you-want-it)
- [Step 6: Rinse, check and moisturise](#step-6-rinse-check-and-moisturise)
- [How to shave a beard off](#how-to-shave-a-beard-off)
- [How to get a close, smooth shave every time](#how-to-get-a-close-smooth-shave-every-time)
- [When shaving goes wrong](#when-shaving-goes-wrong)
- [Look after your razor](#look-after-your-razor)
- [Shaving for the first time?](#shaving-for-the-first-time)
- [Questions people ask](#questions-people-ask)
- [Sources](#sources)

## Key takeaways

- **Prep does half the work.** Warm water and a minute of soaking soften the hair so the blade cuts instead of tugging.
- **Use a proper shaving cream**, worked in with a brush or your fingers, and give it a minute before you start.
- **Shave with the grain first.** Map which way your hair grows, because it changes across the face and neck.
- **Light pressure, short strokes, rinse often.** Let the blade do the cutting.
- **A sharp blade matters more than anything else.** A blunt one causes a lot of the irritation men blame on their skin.
- **Finish gently.** Rinse with cool water, pat dry and moisturise.

## What you need for a wet shave

You do not need many shaving tools, but each one does a job.

Half of a good shave is a sharp blade. [The Bearded Colonel](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk) posts fresh five-blade refills through your letterbox on the schedule you choose, so you never shave with a blunt one.

[See the plans](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/join/)

- **A sharp razor.** A five-blade cartridge razor with a pivoting head is the easiest way to a clean shave for most men. It follows the jaw and spreads the cut over several blades, so you need fewer passes. What matters most is that the blade is fresh. Disposable razors work in a pinch but dull quickly.
- **Shaving cream.** A proper cream gives a thick, slippery layer between blade and skin. We use and recommend cream over cans of foam or gel.
- **A shaving brush (optional).** It lifts the hairs and builds a richer lather than fingers can. Our post on [why shaving brushes are worth it](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/shaving-brushes-amazing/) explains the difference.
- **Warm water, a clean flannel and a towel.**
- **A moisturiser** for afterwards, ideally unscented if your skin is sensitive.

If you are not sure whether to wet shave at all, our guide to [electric shaver vs wet shave](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/electric-shaver-vs-wet-shave/) compares the two. For a wet shaving close finish, a sharp blade and cream still win.

## Step 1: Your pre shave routine

Dry beard hair is tough. Soaked in warm water for a couple of minutes, it softens and is much easier to cut cleanly.\[1\] That is why so many men [shave at the end of a warm shower](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/shave-before-or-after-shower/). If you are shaving at the sink, hold a warm, wet flannel against your face for two or three minutes first.

Wash your face with warm water and a gentle face wash to clear excess oil and dead skin cells, which would otherwise clog the blade.\[1\] Skip ordinary bar soap. DermNet’s advice is a moisturising cleanser and warm water, never soap.\[2\]

Some men add a few drops of pre shave oil at this point for extra glide, though a good cream does the same job. If you get [ingrown hairs](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/how-to-get-rid-of-ingrown-hairs/), gentle exfoliation a couple of times a week helps release trapped hairs.\[3\] Our guide on [whether to exfoliate before or after shaving](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/should-you-exfoliate-before-or-after-shaving/) covers when and how. Do not scrub hard every day, as that irritates the skin you are about to shave.

## Step 2: Apply shaving cream

Leave your face damp but not dripping, and shake off any excess water. To apply shaving cream, take an almond-sized amount and work it into the beard area with a damp brush or your index and middle fingers, using small circular movements to build a lather. This lifts the hairs away from the skin and gets the cream down to the base of each one.

Aim for an even layer that covers every bit you plan to shave, with a little extra on the neck. Then wait a minute or two before you start (DermNet suggests two to three minutes).\[2\] That pause lets the cream soften the hair further and is one of the easiest ways to get a smoother shave.

![Man working shaving cream into his cheek with his fingers, seen in a round bathroom mirror](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/man-applying-shaving-cream-round-mirror-1024x682.jpg)Cream matters more than most men think. It cushions the blade, holds water against the hair and stays put across more than one pass. A thin, airy foam breaks down quickly and leaves the blade dragging on bare skin.

## Step 3: Find the grain of your hair growth

Facial hair does not grow in the same direction across your face. It often grows in different directions on the chin and neck. A common pattern looks like this, though yours may differ:

AreaUsual direction of growthUpper cheeksDownwardsJawlineDown and slightly outwardsChinSwirls, can change directionNeckOften upwards or sidewaysUpper lipDownwardsTo map which way your hair grows, leave a day or two of stubble and run your fingertips over each area. Where it feels smooth, you are moving with the grain. Where it feels rough, you are going against it. Shave in the direction of growth as the safe default. Our guide on [why you shouldn’t shave against the grain](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/why-shouldnt-you-shave-against-the-grain/) explains why going the other way causes so much irritation.

## Step 4: Shave with the grain

Now you can start shaving. The order below gives the cream longest to work on the toughest hair, and gentle strokes are all you need.

1. **Cheeks first.** Hold the razor at a shallow angle and use short, light strokes with the grain. Let the weight of the razor do the work. If you need to press, the blade is too blunt. Dull blades tug and leave the skin raw.
2. **Rinse often.** Run the razor under hot water every two or three strokes, front and back, so hair and cream do not clog the blades.
3. **Upper lip.** Pull your top lip down over your teeth to flatten the skin and shave downwards in short strokes.
4. **Jawline and chin.** Tilt your head back to flatten the skin where it folds. If you get razor bumps, do not pull the skin tight with your free hand, as that makes it easier to cut the hair too short.\[4\] Watch the chin, where the grain often changes.
5. **Neck last.** Tilt your head up and follow your neck’s grain even if it runs sideways or upwards.

Avoid going over the same patch again and again. If an area is left patchy, re-apply a little cream before you touch it again.

## Step 5: A second pass, only if you want it

One pass with the grain is enough for a clean shave most days. If you want it closer, re-lather and take a second pass across the grain (sideways to the growth), on the areas that handle it well, usually the cheeks. Skip the neck if it tends to flare up. Going fully against the grain gives the closest result but raises the risk of razor burn and ingrown hairs.\[2\]

From the Colonel’s shelf

The kit for a proper wet shave

[![The Bearded Colonel Classic razor handle with a five-blade head](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/bearded-colonel-classic-razor-handle-768x773.png)  A sharp blade, always Classic Five blades, a precision trimmer and a roller on the leading edge, so the cream stays under the blades instead of being pushed aside. Fresh refills arrive through your letterbox on your schedule, so you never shave with a blunt one. £10 to start, then 4 refills for £10 or 8 for £17.50 Start with the Classic](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/join/) [![Sandalwood shaving cream in a 75ml travel tin](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/cream-sandalwood-768x545.webp)  Warm and woody Sandalwood Shaving Cream A classic sandalwood cream that whips up a smooth, creamy lather with a warm, woody scent, in a 75ml travel tin. £8 for a 75ml tin See the cream](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/shop/sandalwood-shaving-cream/) [![Shaving brush with vegan synthetic bristles on a wooden base](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/vegan-synthetic-bristle-shaving-brush-768x768.png)  Lifts the hairs The Shaving Brush Lifts the hairs and works the cream down to the base of each one, for a closer shave with less tugging. Vegan synthetic bristles on a hand-finished wooden base. £20 See the brush](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/shop/shaving-brush/)

Every first Classic or VIP order comes with 30 days money back. Shave with it for a month, and if it is not for you, we refund it in full with nothing to send back.

## Step 6: Rinse, check and moisturise

Rinse your face with cool or cold water to wash off the last of the cream and loose hair. It helps calm freshly shaved skin.\[2\] Run your fingers over your face and touch up any missed spots with a dab of cream and a single careful stroke.

Pat your skin dry with a clean towel rather than rubbing it. Then apply a light moisturiser or an alcohol free aftershave balm while the skin is still slightly damp. Strongly scented products can sting straight after a shave, so keep it simple if your skin is sensitive.

## How to shave a beard off

Before it all comes off, it is worth asking whether you want it gone or just want a change. A shorter or different shape can freshen things up without losing the lot, and our [beard styles directory](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/beard-styles/) has plenty to choose from.

If it is going, do not take a razor straight to a full beard. That is a recipe for clogged blades and a sore face. Do it in two stages:

1. **Trim it right down** with clippers or a beard trimmer, as short as they go.
2. **Then wet shave** as above, with extra soaking time. Expect to rinse the razor more often and to go slowly on the neck.

The skin under a beard has not been shaved for a while, so it can feel more sensitive the first few times. Give it a day or two between shaves at first.

## How to get a close, smooth shave every time

These shaving tips for men make the biggest difference to how your face feels afterwards:

- **Change the blade before it drags.** A sharp blade cuts in one stroke, a blunt one pulls the hair before cutting it. Our guide on [how often you should change your razor](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/how-often-should-you-change-your-razor/) goes through the signs.
- **Avoid dry shaving your face.** Always use water and cream, even when you are in a hurry.
- **Keep strokes short** and rinse often, so the blades stay clear.
- **Keep the skin flat** by tilting your head rather than pulling it tight, especially if you get bumps.\[4\]
- **Shave at the right time.** Hair is softest after warm water, so do not shave first thing straight from bed with a dry face.
- **Get the frequency right.** Shaving every day suits some men, others need a day off between shaves. Our post on [how often you should shave](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/how-often-should-you-shave/) helps you decide.

## When shaving goes wrong

**Razor bumps.** Small red or skin-coloured bumps after shaving, usually on the neck. They are hairs trapped under the skin, often after curling back into it, and they are more common in men with curly or coarse hair.\[4\] Our guide to [razor bumps and shaving rash](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/razor-bumps-causes-treatments-prevention/) covers how to treat them and prevent razor bumps coming back.

**Razor burn and stinging.** Usually a blunt blade, dry shaving, rushing or shaving against the grain.\[5\] Rinse with cool water, moisturise and leave it a day before shaving that area again. Our guide to [razor burn](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/razor-burn/) covers treatment and prevention.

**Nicks and cuts.** Press a clean, folded flannel firmly on the cut for a minute or two until it stops.\[6\] Nicks usually mean a dull blade or a stroke across a fold of skin that was not stretched.

If bumps or rash keep coming back, look painful or seem infected, see a GP or pharmacist.

## Look after your razor

Rinse the razor well under hot water after every shave, from the back of the cartridge as well as the front. Shake it, let it air dry upright somewhere dry and airy, and keep it out of the shower, where the blades stay wet. That also helps prevent bacteria building up between the blades.\[1\] Never wipe the edges on a towel, as that dulls them.

Even with good care, every blade wears out. Our refills come through your letterbox on the schedule you choose, so a fresh one is always there when the old one starts to pull.

## Shaving for the first time?

The steps are the same, but go slower and use only one pass. Our guide to [your first shave](https://beardedcolonel.co.uk/blog/what-age-should-you-start-shaving/) is written for teenagers and their parents and covers it from the start.

## Questions people ask

### How do you shave properly?

Soften the hair with warm water, apply a proper shaving cream and leave it for a minute, then shave with the grain using a sharp razor, light pressure and short strokes. Rinse the blade often, finish with cool water and moisturise.

### How do I get a clean shave without irritation?

Use a sharp blade, a proper cream and light pressure, and shave with the grain to avoid irritation. Most irritation comes from a blunt blade or from pressing harder to make up for one.

### Should you shave up or down?

Shave in the direction your hair grows, which is usually down on the cheeks and often up or sideways on the neck. Feel your stubble to find out which way yours grows.

### How do I get a closer shave?

After one pass with the grain, re-lather and take a gentle pass across the grain on the cheeks. Avoid going against the grain on the neck if you are prone to bumps.

### Do I need a shaving brush?

No, but it helps. A brush lifts the hairs and works the cream in more thoroughly than fingers, which makes it easier to get a close shave.

### How long should a shave take?

Ten minutes is plenty once you have the routine. Most of that is prep, and it is what gets you a clean shaven look without the redness.

## Sources

1. American Academy of Dermatology, [Hair removal: How to shave](https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/hair/how-to-shave)
2. DermNet, [Shaving](https://dermnetnz.org/topics/shaving)
3. NHS, [Ingrown hairs](https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/ingrown-hairs/)
4. British Association of Dermatologists, [Pseudofolliculitis (patient information leaflet)](https://cdn.bad.org.uk/uploads/2021/12/16125523/Pseudofolliculitis-PIL-Dec-2021.pdf)
5. Cleveland Clinic, [Razor Burn: Causes and Treatment](https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/23583-razor-burn)
6. NHS, [Cuts and grazes](https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/cuts-and-grazes/)