Why shouldn’t you shave against the grain?

More hotly contested than blue/black or gold/white dresses, the question of whether or not you should shave with the grain or against it is rife with opinions.

The arguments go that shaving the same direction of the grain helps you to avoid irritation, and keep your skin smooth. Against the grainers think a little chafe is worth it in order to get a closer shave.

So which is right?

Why You Should Shave With The Grain

If you’ve got sensitive skin, the most comfortable shave comes from shaving with the grain. Yes, going against the grain gives you a much closer shave, but it also raises the chance of irritation, razor bumps and razor burn. If your skin reacts easily, it’s not worth it.

What happens when you shave against the grain is that the razor blade tugs the hair before it cuts it. This is the strongest argument, as people believe that you’ll get a much closer shave this way. What happens in reality is that you increase the risk of getting ingrown hairs, as well as uncomfortable red razor bumps.

How to Shave with the Grain

To shave with the grain, first you need to map out your stubble.

Run your fingers over your stubble to determine the direction your hair is growing. If it feels rough or prickly against your fingers then you’re moving against it. If it feels smooth and soft then you’re moving with the growth, or grain. So to shave with the grain, you want to go the same direction that the hair is growing.

Some people might find that they can shave against the grain without getting irritated or sore skin, but plenty of people will find that they can’t.

How to Get A Close Shave

Shaving with the grain definitely doesn’t mean that you have to sacrifice the great feeling of a close shave. There are a few solid ways that you can still get a close shave without having to irritate your face or damage your skin.

First of all, go easy on the pressure. Let the razor do the work. Pressing hard to get closer is what drags the blades over the same patch of skin and leaves it red and sore.

Your razor should also be sharp, ideally a fresh blade. A worn blade is much less efficient and does the unfortunate pulling of the hair which leads to major discomfort. If you keep forgetting to swap blades, a razor subscription sends fresh ones on whatever interval suits you.

Then you want to wash your face with warm water. It’s particularly helpful to press a warm flannel to your face for a minute, as this softens the hair and makes it much easier to cut. Then apply a pre-shave oil or shaving lotion to soften the hair. This also acts as a kind of lubricant on your skin, making the razor slide as smoothly as if you’re on ice.

Don’t worry if you accidentally nick the skin, or even in spite of your best efforts end up with some bumps. Aftershave lotions help get moisture back into the skin, which stops the skin from getting flaky or uncomfortably tight. Many lotions also have natural oils to help ease any inflammation.

So the real difference between shaving with the grain or against it comes down to your own personal comfort, and protecting your skin. The above advice is a great way to make sure that you can get a consistent, stylish shave, while also making sure that you stand the best chance of having clear skin at the same time. It’s a win all round!