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What a modern comb over is

Three things make it. The sides are short, usually faded, from a mid fade down to skin. The top is long enough to sweep, 5cm at least and up to about 8cm. And all of that top hair goes one way, combed from a parting set low on one side across and slightly back over the head.

The contrast is the point. Long, combed hair on top against tight sides gives a clean, structured shape that reads as intentional. Many comb overs add a shaved-in hard part along the parting line to sharpen it further.

The finish can be sleek and shiny for a smart look, or matte and a bit loose for something more casual. Some people push the front up a little before sweeping it across, which puts it halfway to a pompadour.

Comb over vs side part

The two are close relatives and the names overlap. The working difference comes down to length and contrast.

A side part is the traditional version. The top is shorter, around 4 to 7cm, the sides are tapered rather than faded, and the hair lies fairly flat either side of a natural parting. It is quieter and more conservative.

A comb over takes the same idea further. The top is longer and swept harder across, often with some lift. The sides are faded, so there is a clear jump between short and long. The parting is often lower and often shaved in.

Put simply, if you asked for a side part and got tight faded sides and a long sweep, you got a comb over.

A word on hiding a bald patch

Growing the hair long on one side and combing it over thinning hair on top does not work. In good light the scalp shows through, wind and rain undo it, and the effort draws more attention to the hair loss than the hair loss would on its own.

The modern comb over needs a full head of hair on top, because the sweep is the style. If your crown or front is thinning, the coupes de cheveux pour les hommes qui perdent leurs cheveux page has cuts that make the most of it instead of hiding it. A slightly receding temple is fine. The low parting can sit right in it.

Who a comb over suits

Straight and wavy hair are the easy cases. Straight hair gives a clean, sleek sweep. Wavy hair adds movement and looks good with a matte finish.

Cheveux épais holds the shape well, but it can push outwards and look bulky on top. Ask the barber to take some weight out.

Fine hair works if the top is kept towards the short end, about 5cm, so it does not collapse. A light product and a quick blow dry help it hold.

Cheveux bouclés can be worn as a comb over with enough length on top for the curls to sit to one side. Expect a softer, more textured result rather than a sharp sweep.

Forme du visage only matters a little. The height and sideways sweep suit oval, square and round faces. On a long face, keep the fade lower and the top flatter so the cut does not add length.

How to ask a UK barber for a comb over

Bring a photo of the side you will part on. A front-on photo hides the fade and the sweep.

• Ask for a comb over fade. Most barbers will know exactly what you mean by that.
• The fade. Say where it starts and how short it goes. A mid fade from a grade 0 (no guard, about 0.5 to 1mm) is the common version. For maximum contrast, ask for a dégradé de couleur, finished with a foil shaver. For something softer that grows out better, ask for a taper at the edges only, from a grade 1 (3mm). The types of fade page explains the heights.
• The top. "Leave 5 to 8cm on top and take some weight out." Point to where you want it longest, usually the front.
• The parting. Tell them which side, and whether you want it shaved in. A hard part looks sharp for a week and then needs redoing, so it ties you to the barber.
• The connection. Blended into the top is standard. A disconnected version with a clear step between sides and top is bolder.

Ask them to style it at the end so you see which way they push it.

Styling a comb over at home

Five minutes once you have the knack.

1. Towel dry to damp.
2. Add a little product or pre-styler. A small amount of styling cream, or sea salt spray if your hair is fine.
3. Blow dry in the direction it will sit. Comb the hair from the parting across and slightly back as you dry, with medium heat. Lift the front with your fingers or a round brush if you want some height. Finish on cool.
4. Finish with product. Pomade for a sleek, shiny look. Clay or paste for matte texture. Use a small amount and work it in from the roots.
5. Comb it into place. Set the parting with the end of a comb, then sweep the top across. Use your fingers instead if you want it looser.

For curly hair, use a curl cream and a diffuser, and leave the comb out of it.

Upkeep and how often to cut

Every two to three weeks. The faded sides are what make the cut, and a fade looks grown out well before the top does. A hard part fades within a week or two as well.

If that is too often, ask for a lower fade or a taper next time. A taper comb over can stretch to three or four weeks.

At each cut the barber should redo the fade, check the top is still taking the sweep and thin it if it is getting heavy. A few things help between cuts:

• If the top keeps falling forward, dry it in the direction you want it before adding product. Product will not train hair that was dried the wrong way.
• If it looks greasy, you are using too much. Start with half what you think you need.
• If the parting wanders, the barber may have set it against your natural growth. Ask them to find your natural parting next time.

Variations

• Comb over fade. Mid or skin fade sides. The standard modern version.
• Hard part comb over. A line shaved in along the parting. Sharpest look, most upkeep.
• Textured comb over. Matte product, looser finish, pushed across with the fingers. Less formal.
• Comb over with lift. The front pushed up before sweeping across. Closer to a pompadour.
• Taper comb over. Only the edges taken short, rather than a full fade. Softer and grows out better.

Grow the sides out to a grade 3 and tone down the sweep and you have a side part. Keep growing the top and comb it straight back and it becomes a cheveux lissés en arrière.