Drop Fade

What a drop fade is

Picture a standard fade from the side. The line where the short hair meets the longer hair runs roughly horizontal, from the temple, over the ear and round the back.

On a drop fade, that line drops. It starts in the same place at the front, then curves downwards behind the ear, so at the back of the head the fade sits much lower than it does at the sides. The finished shape follows the natural curve of the skull rather than cutting across it.

The effect is that more hair is left at the back of the head and the crown, and the outline around and behind the ear looks deliberate and rounded. From the front, a drop fade looks almost exactly like a normal fade. You see the difference from the side and the back.

Like any fade, it can finish at different depths. A grade 0 or a half at the bottom is standard. A drop skin fade goes to bare skin with a foil shaver or razor.

Drop fade vs other fades

The types of fade are described by two things, height and depth. The drop adds a third, the shape of the line. That means a drop fade can also be low, mid or high.

Drop fade vs low fade. A low fade runs a level line just above the ear all the way round. A low drop fade starts in the same place but curves down behind the ear. Same front, different back.

Drop fade vs burst fade. These get confused because both involve a curve around the ear. A burst fade is a semicircle centred on the ear. It is short around the ear and then the length returns at the back, often leaving a longer section at the nape. A drop fade keeps going down to the neckline. The back is short on a drop, longer on a burst.

Drop fade vs taper. A taper only shortens the edges, at the sideburns and the nape. A drop fade blends a full band of the side. Tapers grow out more softly. If you want the gentlest version, look at the taper fade family instead.

Who a drop fade suits

Head shape. This is the one cut where head shape matters more than face shape. Because the line follows the curve of the skull, it suits heads with a noticeable curve at the back. If the back of your head is flatter, a level fade can look neater, and a good barber will adjust how deep the drop goes to suit you.

Hair type. Straight and wavy hair show the curve cleanly. On thick hair, a drop fade takes a lot of weight off behind the ears, which stops the back of the head looking wide. Coily hair holds a crisp curve very well. On a full curly top, the curve can get lost under the volume, so keep the top a little more controlled if you want the shape to show. More on this in hairstyles by hair type.

Fine or thinning hair. Fine, as long as the top is not slicked flat against the head. A slightly higher fade with a grade 1 or longer at the bottom avoids too much scalp showing.

Work. A low drop fade with a guarded finish is about as conservative as a fade gets. A high drop skin fade is much louder.

Avoid it if you want a simple, level outline, or you do not want to explain the cut to a new barber every time.

How to ask a UK barber for a drop fade

Bring a photo that shows the side and the back. Pictures from the front do not show what makes it a drop fade.

1. Name it, and describe it. "A drop fade, where the line starts above the ear and curves down behind it to the nape." Not every barber uses the same name, so describe the shape as well.
2. Say how high it starts at the front. Low (just above the ear) or mid (around the temple). Low is the most common.
3. Give the bottom grade. A grade 0 (no guard, about 0.5 to 1mm), a grade 1 (3mm), or skin.
4. Describe the top. Length in centimetres and how you wear it.

Example orders:

• "Low drop fade from a grade 0, curving down behind the ear, about 6cm on top so I can slick it back."
• "Mid drop skin fade, about 4cm on top, textured and pushed forward."

Mention whether you want a squared or a natural neckline. And if you wear a beard, ask for a beard fade so the sideburn blends down into the beard without a hard line.

Styling a drop fade

The fade needs nothing day to day. What you do on top is up to you, but drop fades tend to go with tops that have some length and direction.

Slicked back. About 6 to 8cm on top, combed straight back with a light pomade or cream. This is a classic pairing, because the line of the hair follows the line of the fade. See the slick back for the full method.

Pompadour or quiff. Volume at the front, blow-dried up and back, set with a stronger paste or clay. The drop keeps the back neat underneath. The quiff page covers the drying technique.

Textured crop. 3 to 4cm pushed forward with a small amount of matte paste. The quickest option.

Curls. Curl cream on damp hair and leave it to dry. Keep the top a bit shorter than you might otherwise so the curve still shows.

Keep product off the faded area. On very short hair it just looks greasy.

Upkeep and how often to cut a drop fade

Every two to three weeks. The curve is the first thing to go. Hair grows roughly 1cm a month, and a few millimetres is enough to blur the line behind the ear and make the drop look like an ordinary fade.

A skin drop fade needs the shorter end of that range. One finishing on a grade 1 can stretch to three weeks or a little more.

Stick with the same barber if you can. The depth and shape of the curve is a judgement call, and a new barber will cut it slightly differently.

Drop fade variations

• Low drop fade. Starts just above the ear. The most common version and the easiest to wear.
• Mid drop fade. Starts around the temple, so there is more contrast from the front.
• Drop skin fade. Taken to bare skin at the bottom.
• With a slick back. 6 to 8cm combed back. The curve follows the line of the hair.
• With a pompadour. Volume at the front, neat curve behind.
• With curls. A clean curve under a curly top.

To grow a drop fade out, ask the barber to stop fading and only tidy the neckline. The curve softens within a few weeks. At around six weeks a grade 3 or 4 through the back and sides evens out the lengths.